Kitano Tenmangu Shrine (北野天満宮, Kitano Tenmangū) is one of the most important of several hundred shrines across Japan that are dedicated to Sugawara Michizane, a scholar and politician who was unfairly exiled by his political rivals. A number of disasters were attributed to Michizane’s vengeful spirit after his death in exile, and these shrines were built to appease him. Sugawara Michizane is associated with Tenjin, the kami (“Shinto god”) of education. Consequently, many students visit Kitano Tenmangu to pray for success in their studies, and the shrine can become especially crowded with students during exam seasons.
Michizane cherished plum trees, and a particular plum tree, known as the flying plum tree or tobiume, is supposed to have accompanied him from Kyoto to his exile in Kyushu. As a result, at Tenmangu shrines, a plum tree is always present in front of the offering hall.
Apart from the tobiume tree, Kitano Tenmangu has a whole grove of around two thousand plum trees, which bloom in February and March. Every February 25, the shrine holds a unique tea ceremony in this plum grove called Baikasai, which is attended by maiko and geiko from the neighbouring Kamishichiken geiko area.
As the shrine opens its garden to the public from late October to early December, during the height of the autumn leaf season, Kitano Tenmangu is also a well-liked destination for autumn foliage. The river through the garden is bordered by hundreds of illuminated maple trees at night.
Not to mention, on the 25th of every month, a flea market takes place on the grounds of the shrine and in the nearby streets. Numerous food stations offering festival fare like yakisoba, karaage, and takoyaki join hundreds of vendors selling plants, antiques, tools, toys, and crafts.
Kitano Tenmangu Shrine can be reached directly by Kyoto City Bus number 50 from Kyoto Station (230 yen, 30 minutes). An indirect but perhaps quicker route during rush hours is to take the Karasuma Subway Line to Imadegawa Station and catch bus 203 to the shrine. In either case, get off at the Kitano Tenmangu-mae bus stop.
(www.japan-guide.com)